In Paris, In Search of the American Dream
by Norma Hopcraft
We're having a heat wave in Paris. 102 Wednesday, Thursday the highest ever temperature in Paris, 108 F. But I am enjoying France anyway. I've had interactions with people in this town where I'm staying, just outside of Paris. They've all been very pleasant and helpful and happy that I'm trying to speak French with them.
My back went out, so I'm a little behind in my writing schedule. But I put in a good chunk of time this afternoon, and will give it another hour and a half now. Then I'll watch a French movie with English subtitles.
The first day i was here Christelle, her family and I went to a big destination in Paris, Les Invalides, an army hospital, still in use, that Louis XIV built for his men in 1670. We enjoyed a sound and light show and then went behind the hospital to Napoleon's tomb (covered by a gold dome--you'll see).
He was such a huge force in the history of not only France but all of Europe. When I looked at his huge marble coffin, I felt like there was still energy from him emanating out of it. He'd like to get out and do it all over again, only this time better.
His coffin is directly under the dome--maybe 75 feet below the highest point. His coffin is lit with special lighting and surrounded by marble statues of angels. And hovering above, Jesus on the cross. But Napoleon is the star of this show.
For all the glory and riches that went into making his tomb, what does it matter? Dead is dead. Whether you're in a pine coffin or an elaborate marble one. I think "dead is dead" is kind of funny, especially in light of all that was invested in making his tomb spectacular. I'm enjoying my irreverence.
This trip to his tomb, with other French ministers and generals in coffins in side chapels around him, all took place at midnight. It was really spooky--but delightfully so.
These pictures were taken by my friend Christelle's father. His name is Thierry Lamblin, he recently retired as a cardiologist, and he lives near Grenoble.
The main gate to Les Invalides, the huge army hospital, still in use, that Louis XIV built for his wounded men. The name of the firm that created the show, Lutece, is projected onto the facade, along with a tantalizing taste of the colors and effects that they used during the show.
The son et lumiere show was projected against the walls of the courtyard of Les Invalides.
In the center is Napoleon's absolutely huge marble coffin. We visited at midnight. Candles lit the marble floor, and spotlights highlighted the carved angels.
A shot of the dome, many many feet above our heads.
Jesus guarding Napoleon, who is definitely the star of this arrangement.
A shot of the dome at midnight.
The Eiffel Tower is near Les Invalides, lit up at night for all it's worth and probing the city with its spotlight. How about you? Want to do it all over again, only better? Comment below!
I visited Paris for a few days this May. Enjoyed every minute, but didn't have the in-depth experience you are chronicling. Looking forward to reading your book!
ReplyDeleteHi, Diane, what did you do in Paris, in the days that you had? Maybe you'll have a recommendation for me!
DeleteOur time was limited, so we rode the Red bus and hopped on and off. A highlight for my friend was visiting the love locks bridge during a stroll along the Seine - her significant other is fascinated by the concept. Just taking the time to walk and soak up the atmosphere was calming. Took pix of Notre Dame; glad to see the gargoyles survived. Unexpected fun: introducing travel buddy to Kir Royale during dinner one night. I am now addicted to pain au chocolat!
ReplyDeleteI too have a weakness at la patisserie: pain aux raisins -- flaky yet custardy at the same time. Only the French.
DeleteI was just at the Pont des Arts earlier this afternoon. When I was living here in 2014-2015, the bridge was covered with padlocks left by lovers. All of that has been removed. Instead of chain link fencing, which was so easy to hang a padlock from, I saw today that the walls of the bridge are now glass. There wasn't a lock in sight. Did the authorities allow people to make a new bridge into a love locks bridge? Fill me in!
The padlocks were removed because their combined weight was menacing the stability of the passerelle du pont des arts. Or rusting. Anyway, the mayor had the padlocks removed and the metal sold at scrap value and the money given to charity.
DeleteNo, the town hall did not allow another place to host love locks! ;) They don't want any! They hate padlocks ! (can't remember the other reasons, visual pollution, pollution of the keys thrown to the river or else) ;)
Hi, Regis, thank you for your comment! Thank you for filling me in on the padlocks situation in Paris. I did see a padlock thing getting started in Pere LeChaise cemetery, on the metal fencing the authorities put in to keep people back from his headstone. I don't know what people did with the key--bury it there? How many of all these couples are still together...?
DeleteMy Paris scenes are here on Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/dmcordell/albums/72157709009490212/with/4630473296/ Not done uploading Seine River Cruise yet. "The Pont des Arts or Passerelle des Arts is a pedestrian bridge in Paris which crosses the River Seine. It links the Institut de France and the central square (cour carrée) of the Palais du Louvre, (which had been termed the 'Palais des Arts' under the First French Empire)." -Wikipedia This is the new location.
ReplyDeleteYou have a great eye for photos, Diane! Nicely done. Bien fait!
DeleteWhere are you going next?
Heading to Old Orchard Beach, Maine, next week, then Disney World in November (with my son and his family both times). Hoping to return to Europe in 2020, but will need to find some partners in mischief, since my husband prefers to remain at home. What are your plans?
DeleteStarting Chapter 34 of The Paris Writers Circle. Enjoying the characters immensely; how did you decide on an Indian protagonist?
DeleteI'm so glad you're enjoying the book! I decided on an Indian protagonist three years before i started writing that novel, when I encountered a very strong young Indian woman in my creative writing courses at NYU. She referred to herself as "a brown girl" and I just liked that so much! In 2020, I hope to devote all my vacation time from work to another creative writing sabbatical! I gotta work at this dream as hard as I can...But if I decide that I don't want to do a writing sabbatical in 2020, I think we should talk! I'm a nonna too, but I asked to be referred to as "Gigi" in light of all the French I speak fluently (not). My two-year-old hasn't said Gigi yet : ( No wonder we've connected, you're a librarian!
DeleteWe tried all kinds of names with my oldest grandchild, but she refused to call me by any of them. I finally said, "Nonna" (I'm half Italian) and she immediately adopted it. Maybe when you're back in the States, we could meet up (I live in upstate New York). Loved the book, left a review on Amazon.
ReplyDelete