Saturday, April 20, 2019

The Unexpected in Rochester, NY while in search of the American Dream

Poets, Butterflies in Winter--Who Knew?

By Norma Jaeger Hopcraft


I traveled to Rochester, New York recently to see family and to explore my daughter and son-in-law's chosen place to live. They arrived February 1, from Chapel Hill, North Carolina. An average 20-degree temperature difference all year long between the two cities. In Rochester it snows daily, in Chapel Hill once a winter.

Well, they went to school here, met here, and have family and friends here. So it does make sense.

Rochester was hard hit for a long time by the failures and/or exits of Kodak, Xerox, Bausch & Lomb. But it is experiencing a resurgence, quite possibly led by artists and the arts, as it is in Buffalo and Detroit and many other places. There are a dozen theater companies. Eastman School of Music puts on several music shows every night, for much more moderate fees than you can find in New York City, where I live. There is an entrepreneurial spirit here as well. The city is on the rebound. But is still affordable for young families and artists like me.

So, when I got to Rochester, I explored. Rochester has an arts district, known as Neighborhood of the Arts, or NOTA for short. There's a poets walk in this neighborhood, with bronze plaques set in the sidewalk honoring Rochester-related poets. Luminaries like E.E. Cummings, and Naomi Shihab Nye. Who knew? I didn't expect to see that.



in search of the american dream
Village Gate is the former home of Stecher-Truang Lithographic Co., one of the world's largest lithographic plants. It now houses restaurants, studios, salons, shops, offices, and residential lofts.


in search of the american dream
A sculpture just hanging out in the neighborhood.


in search of the american dream
Writers and Books Literary Center is in a former police precinct house. The list of writers who teach here is luminous, just like the poets walk.

in search of the american dream
A close-up of the beautiful doorway.

in search of the american dream
Step in to make a call to poetry.

in search of the american dream
Whimsical streetside bench.

in search of the american dream
Whimsical paint on one of the superb houses in the Neighborhood of the Arts.

in search of the american dream
Another former factory turned into a gift shop.


in search of the american dream
The residents are doing whimsical sculpture by growing a wisteria vine up the stairs.

in search of the american dream
Another whimsical streetside bench.

in search of the american dream
Here it is, outside another incredible house.

in search of the american dream
I wouldn't mind living here, among the gables, dormers, and bay windows.

in search of the american dream
Look at this lovely lady.

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A lovely architectural detail on the same house.

There are plenty of reasons to love Rochester. The citizens are hardy, survivors of tough winters and short summers. They are hearty -- robust, outgoing, helpful toward neighbors, deep believers in strong, stable families. 

Even though Rochester has had its setbacks, the citizens are still in search of the American Dream.

My daughter and I took the little guy and did some more exploring, this time along the fabled Erie Canal. We took the 18-month-old to a park near the canal and let him toddle around, put him in the swing, took him out, let him climb up and come down the slide. Then, with the ants out of his pants temporarily, we walked the Erie canal about a mile to have coffee in the town of Fairport.

in search of the american dream
A bridge house, complete with platform for gazing, on the Erie Canal in Fairport.

in search of the american dream
A bridge over the canal, and the town's beautiful new library just beyond it.

in search of the american dream
Here's my daughter, pushing Babo across the bridge after a toddle in the library.

in search of the american dream
Does it give you the urge to sing the Erie Canal song? Do they teach it in school anymore...it's a part of our American heritage, like "Working on the Railway" and "Dixie" and "Home on the Range," don't you think?

in search of the american dream
A former bridge house, now a kayak rental.

in search of the american dream
We scooted the mile back to the car before Babo got antsy.

in search of the american dream
Nothing like a sweeping curve.

We also went to the butterfly garden at the Strong National Museum of Play. Babo just kept saying "Wow! Wow!" and he was quite right.


in search of the american dream


in search of the american dream

in search of the american dream

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A ground partridge.


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A toucan.

in search of the american dream
Orchids.

in search of the american dream

in search of the american dream

How about you? Do you say or think "Wow!" in tropical gardens full of butterflies, lizards, and exotic flowers? I hope we all still do. Comment below!




Saturday, April 6, 2019

Unexpected in Brooklyn

The Traveling Writer Explores the Unexpected in Brooklyn

By Norma Jaeger Hopcraft


I mentioned in my last post that I had seen baseball caps all over France and Barcelona that had "Brooklyn" emblazoned across them. Seeing "Brooklyn" proudly worn in Europe influenced my expectations.

So, what did I expect?

I expected a world-class city. I expected pride amongst its citizens that they were living in a world-renowned city. I expected Brooklyn to be fun, picturesque, engaging, artsy.

Not in my immediate neighborhood. It's called Prospect Park South. If you zoom in on the southern edge of the park closely enough, that name will appear. If you zoom out, it disappears and the area gets covered by a much less classy-sounding name, Flatbush.


in search of the American dream
I did not expect to see a home reminiscent of a southern plantation in Brooklyn. But it's there! Looks as though someone went in search of the American Dream and found it.



Church Avenue is the main artery through Prospect Park South. It's one-lane each way, so it's not as divisive as a four-lane road would be. In my neighborhood, Church Avenue is lined on both sides with small shops: liquor store (of course), many small grocery/deli stores, most of which specialize in Caribbean products like swords of aloe vera, cans of coconut milk, piles of jack fruit, mangoes, avocados, jars of guava jelly. 

There are shoe stores, watch repair shops like my friend Abida's (from Pakistan), beauty supplies, wigs, barbershops, hair braiding shops galore. There's a Duane Reade pharmacy, several branches of big-name banks, a cut-rate department store, and a natural foods market trying to ride the wave as the area gentrifies.

I'm a gentrifier, though I don't want to be. I'm in Brooklyn because I work for a non-profit and the rent is cheap -- at least it was two years ago, not anymore -- and I snapped up the apartment within an hour of it hitting the listings. There isn't a studio apartment anywhere in Manhattan, where I'd rather live, that rents for less than $2,000 a month. Rents in my neighborhood are surging toward that level, and the black folks who've been there decades are being forced out as white young people realize the rents aren't too bad.

The blacks who've lived here for decades, relegated to broom jobs and Starbucks jobs and $10 per hour health aide jobs, can't keep up. I'm not sure where they go. Down South? Farther out in Brooklyn, in the vast swaths of it that have no park, no subway? Where the commute must be done by bus, which takes far longer, is more stop-and-go in street traffic, is far more stressful.

Before I moved there, I pictured a Brooklyn that felt artsy, happy, more relaxed than Manhattan. Instead, the atmosphere in my neighborhood is pungent with fear of not making rent that month. I haven't found any fellow writers, even though I advertised a new writers group at the local library for six months. Maybe people don't have time to write when they work 10 hours a day in 12-day stretches, as home health aides have to. The black women of my neighborhood are keeping the elderly rich in Manhattan alive. And soon these women will have to commute far longer to keep their jobs with their already impossibly-long days and weeks.

So the atmosphere isn't creative and artsy and full of possibility in my neighborhood. Instead, it's full of anxiety and, yes, a touch of resentment. Doors have been closed to these folks because they've been judged on the color of their skin. They see a little white woman powering off to her 7.5-hour-a-day, 5-days-a-week job, and the atmosphere gets a little bitter. 

And I see such a waste of human potential. Black young men stand and talk in groups on the sidewalk. They are clever enough to run a company, run a country. But the education system failed them, and racism thwarts them, and they grew up knowing there was no money for college and not much chance of ever being anything but poor.

I want to say to the people I pass, people looking down at the sidewalk, sad expressions on their faces, or faces shut down from any feeling: Don't give up. Keep trying. You can overcome -- just look at how the Internet can't tell the color of your skin. You can do things to change the trajectory of your life. 

But I truly don't know how many times they've been knocked down, denied, doors slammed. So I just keep doing my best at my writing and working and praying for racist attitudes to change, for the education system to improve, for doors to open to more people of color.

So I didn't get the artsy atmosphere that I expected. I didn't get the more relaxed atmosphere than Manhattan I expected. 

I do get to live in a "pre-war building." Mine was built in 1920 and probably was a very elegant, high-end place back then. I have parquet floors, high ceilings, big windows -- though my windows face the courtyard and just look out on other windows and gray brick.

To see sky from my apartment, I have to look out the window, up, and to the left. I think I had expected to gaze at a tree from my window. No such thing.

There's a neighborhood near me I'd like to show you next. It's called Ditmas Park, and it too is part of Flatbush.

I did not expect to see anything like it in Brooklyn. 

It's full of beautifully built houses. They stand shoulder-to-shoulder, tight together on plots barely bigger than the houses themselves. But they are so elegant, so beautiful. I walk by them on my way to my favorite café, for a lavender latte, and feel so happy that such beautiful houses exist, and exist in Brooklyn, and exist near my home. And I feel so happy that I'm not responsible for taking care of one, paying for heat, electricity, roofing, repairs. But these houses are eye candy for me. How about you?

in search of the American dream
If money were no object and I could afford to own and keep up a home like this, my writing room would be on the third floor in the little round room.

in search of the American dream
Tara, anyone?

in search of the American dream
Maybe my writing room would be on the second floor, behind the bay window. On nice days I'd sit outside on the upstairs porch.

in search of the American dream
The details in these homes are beautiful! See the dentated, curved molding above the curved bay windows? See the scaffolding holding up the left corner? We're talking big dollars...

in search of the American dream
How gorgeous! I envy them the porch to sit on. 

in search of the American dream
How about you? Do this kind of house appeal to you? Comment below! And Retweet this post if you enjoyed it!